Designer Profile: 100% Made in The UK Hannah Marshall
For those that haven’t encountered any of the extensive press coverage which Hannah has had, here is an attempt at summing up her aesthetic: power dressing for those who want to steer clear of any of the 1980s connotations associated with that phrase. Her aw07 collection ‘Quiet Noise’ that was shown as part of On/Off at London Fashion Week in February 2007 and featured stark shapes executed in butter soft leather, tactile silk jersey and in a muted palette of dove grey, nude and black. Though it’s tempting to describe Hannah’s clothes as ‘minimalist,’ the astute details, such as sharp, pointed hips on a shift dress or leather juxtaposed against fine knit, mean that garments are more complicated than they first seem and are more show-stopping than ‘slink into the background’.
Her second offering ‘Void’ for ss08 affirmed her individual aesthetic. Her collections are essentially made up of clever capsule pieces that permeate previous and future collections – a cardigan from aw07 could be paired effortlessly with a silk jersey dress from ss08. It seems each collection is made with the intention of it being purchased in its entirety (for those fortunate enough to have that opportunity) and worn forever. The unique look of Hannah’s clothing is not the only thing that links collection to collection - she also integrates hidden messages in Braille into all her pieces, from Braille belts to leather dresses. This exploration of communication is a personal interest of Hannah's and has become a signature feature of her work.
Aside from her obvious talent and keen attention to detail, Hannah is also an astute businesswoman with complete control over her label. She is immersed in each part of the design process - from conception in the form of 2-dimensional drawings, to fabric sourcing and factory visits. "Since day one, I had planned to be 100% British," she tells me. "Meaning that my base is here in the UK as well as the entire production". Hannah is proud to produce in the UK. "The label ‘Made in Britain’ holds an instantaneous value, rather more than a label stating a product is ‘Made in China’". This highlights the dilemma that many British design graduates face as they embark on building their own business – whether to choose the relative bargain of producing abroad or take advantage of the highly qualitative finish that can be achieved in Britain itself. "Of course, my decision to be 100 % British comes at a cost" admits Hannah. "The price per unit is higher than producing in any other country, however, it means I have total control over the production process and I can oversee it easily and communicate with the factories without any language barriers. This results in a smoother process and the high quality can be retained season after season."
Not many young designers, or indeed seasoned ones, make quality a priority, but for Hannah this decision has worked to her advantage. "Buyers have been responsive from day one. I was invited to Browns Focus for a meeting with the buyers to view my first collection which was really positive, followed by being approached by Bergdorf Goodman New York for a private appointment." Already her label is being sold in independents in Milan, Rome, New York, Greece and the UK, not to mention on websites www.brittique.com and www.ninaandlola.com where her clothes reach an international audience.
The web is a core part of Hannah's growing business and she's passionate about using her website to market her brand. "Having web presence is an essential marketing tool for any business and I actually had mine set up whilst I was studying my degree as I had always planned on setting up my own business. I use my site to not only show each collection, but to update news and developments".
Hannah herself is a key marketing tool for her brand – she is an advert for her label dressing predominantly in her own designs. "The majority of what I design is what I want to actually wear" she confides. Surely this is affirmation of a great product when the creator will wear nothing else? Perhaps it’s this enthusiasm for her brand coupled with her talent that has seen her produce five dresses on a commission for French Vogue and won her a competition to design uniforms for a boutique hotel in the North of England, not to mention the addition of sought-after New Gen sponsorship for aw08 London Fashion Week.
Though she doesn’t feature witty slogans emblazoned across her silk jersey vests or dip into East End nu-rave for inspiration, Hannah Marshall is proving to be 100% British and 100% talented. Expect to hear a lot more of her ‘Quiet Noise’ soon.
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