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Laura Lees fuk@lfw a/w 06

Tue, 14/02/2006 - 9:30am
Small Fish Cafe, Old Street E1

The first off-schedule show of London Fashion Week was by the indomitable Laura Lees, who hosted a wonderful breakfast to a relaxed crowd.

Inspired by Las Vegas, the collection is a riotous showcase of exquisite embroidery and psychedelic colours. One dress - buttersoft black leather - is particularly strong (think Thierry Mugler on acid). Embellished with shooting stars, dice and pink flamingos, Laura told us it "isn't finished yet" because she wants to "go mad and add more detail". Never mind the fact she has already worked on it for five weeks!

This unique passion is one that sets her aside from other practitioners. She approaches her work as a fine artist - the quality is never compromised. In addition to her autumn/winter collection she also showcased eclectic artwork embroidered on black canvases.

Sheer craftsmanship and attention to detail is evident throughout her work. Her silk dresses feature hand-embroidered details that you would normally expect to see on a couture garment. And the models themselves evidently loved wearing the clothes; steering clear of the stereotypical catwalk, the girls simply hung out and chatted to the gathered fashionistas which ensured we could feel the fabrics.

The mood of the collection is pretty yet spirited, sexy and strong. Not unlike Laura herself!

Words: Bianca Donnelly. Photos: David Jones.

Laura Lees is interviewed in Day 1 of our podcast series.

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Her work is the same as it has been since she did Luella's grafitti jacket for her 2nd season, and probably long before that. I think she needs a change of material, technique, or something to inject some newness into her style. It's starting to look stale.