Steve J & Yoni P

Now in their fourth season at London Fashion Week, Steve J and Yoni P are two designers bordering on the right side of zany. It must have been no mere coincidence that Diane Pernet sat front row - her towering headdress echoed some of the design choices. Mickey Mouse style baubles, Cranford-esque bonnets and hammers with aerial letters spelling out the designers’ names were just a few of the rather quirky choices of headgear on show.

Luckily the clothes held their own against the mad hatters. Coral draped silk jersey dresses, silver combats, concertinaed chiffon baby doll dresses and structured monochrome mini-dresses opened the show. There was a girlish innocence to the clothes duly enhanced by the abstract teddy bears and long wavy hair.

Mid show and we were in for quite a spectacle as three ballerinas were lifted onto three podiums, cut trailing nets from the ceiling, fashioned them into veils and pirouetted around the catwalk coquettishly. Yes, we told you they were bonkers.

This signaled a slight change to the collection; garments became more architectural and the design detail became more complex. Metallic sculptural skirts were paired with intricately folded and fanned bodices and subtle hues became rich shades of orange and deepest blue.

Steve J and Yoni P seem to have got the crazy versus craftsmanship ratio just right this season. Eccentric details were there to but fleetingly entertain whereas the clothes were deftly made, full of designer flair and ready to be worn.

Words: Selene Pearson

Photos: Ian Gillett

www.steveyonistudio.com